Walking 500 Miles on the Camino de Santiago

You may have seen a 2010 movie starring Martin Sheen called The Way, about some people walking the Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It is a pilgrimage with medieval origins.

I just spent 5 weeks in April walking over 1,000km along the Camino.

Some people were instantly excited about my walk, others looked at me incredulously.  Since our client community has many avid travellers, I thought I’d write an article answering the three most common questions I have been asked about the experience. {If you are seriously thinking of walking the Camino, I’d be happy to have a chat and answer your questions].

Why did you do it?

People walk the Camino for many reasons.  The people I met along the way were doing it for the religious tradition, for the adventure, for mental health and wellbeing, to meet new people from around the world, and for personal reflection.

I already do a lot of walking.  I find it does wonders for my mental wellbeing. The idea of flying to the other side of the world, to a country where I do not speak the language, and walk over 1,000km through rural areas seemed like a wonderful way to unplug from the world for a while. I started with no expectations of what it would be like or what I might take away from the experience.

What was it like?

There were good days and bad days.  The scenery and landscapes ranged from the spectacular to the featureless. There were times I was bored and homesick, but I think those emotions are integral to the experience. Some of my takeaways were:

  • Parts of northern Spain look more like Ireland than Ireland.

  • Walking, on average, 30 km per day can be done by people of all age groups, even people in their early 80s. 

  • Glasses of delicious vino priced below 2 euros does encourage you to drink more.

  • There is no soundproofing in Spanish buildings – conversations through walls are possible.

  • Duct tape is ineffective patching holes in shoes.

  • The world’s best dessert is a coulant de chocolate served by a little hostel in Rabanal Del Camino, aka the middle of nowhere.

  • Think twice before ordering lentil soup. It will have an impact.

  • A moustache does sort of suit me.

  • Going downhill is much harder than going uphill.

  • Red wine and custard do complement each other nicely.

  • Smoking in outdoor eating areas is dreadful - thank goodness we got rid of this in Australia.

  • Some dryers look like washing machines, so be careful where you throw your detergent.

  • Going on a long walk helps you be more in the moment. It allows you to slow down. I gained some mental clarity and a sense of calm and balance.

It was an unforgettable experience. I wrote in a journal each day so the memories can be periodically reignited.

What did you learn?

Walking the Camino is a multifaceted experience.

More than one person has asked did I discover the meaning of life?!  In short, yes and no.

I found Viktor Frankl’s book Man’s Search for Meaning (one of the books I read along the way, along with a couple of Paulo Coelho) insightful. His framework of finding meaning in life through Work (do something significant), Love (care for others) and Challenges (have courage in difficult times) resonated with me as the best way to articulate what gives my life meaning. I have written a list under each of these three headings I will periodically revisit, because what gives your life meaning does change over time.

I found I spend too much time focused on my future or past. I need to learn to enjoy the now more. If I only focus on getting to the next goal, the road can become torture.

If I could sum up my thoughts in one word, it would be Enthusiasm. I did not expect this to be my key takeaway from the Camino! And I’m not talking about Tom Cruise on Oprah’s couch levels of enthusiasm. For me, I realised the importance of bouncing back, time and again, when you could otherwise be discouraged. I realised the people I love being with have a common trait – enthusiasm for life. They have defeats like we all do, but don’t dwell on them for too long. The sparkle in the eye and the lust for life (as Iggy would say) burn deep.

Was it worth it? Absolutely - it was a proper adventure.  Would I do it again? Thanks, but no thanks.

Oh, and if you ever walk the Camino, take waterproof gloves in case of unexpected snowstorms…

Author: Rick Walker